Articles & Resources

Black socks they never get dirty, or do they?
Initiative for a Cleaner Greener Clothing Industry
By Kristin Garguilo, Director of School Programs

As children we all learned that funny little tune "black socks - they never get dirty - the longer you wear them the stronger they get." What they didn't tell us is how dirty those black socks are the day we buy them. The use of synthetics, pesticides, and petrochemicals dominate fabrics used in clothing production, and have become the normal fashion purchase.

Where has this left the environment? Conventional cotton growing techniques utilize 3% of the world's farmland but use 25% of the world's chemical pesticides. The USDA's year 2000 study on cotton production found that eighty-four million pounds of pesticides were sprayed on cotton in the U.S.A, ranking it second behind corn. Ironically, it is estimated that less than 10% of the chemicals applied to cotton accomplish their task, the rest are absorbed into the plant, air, soil, water and eventually, our bodies. When it comes to synthetic fibers I have one word - polyester - enough said.

We, as environmentalists, have all heard the horror stories about the clothing market and what it does to human rights, the environment, and our bodies. But telling the public to buy less doesn't work; it ignores the appeal of the clothing market. Even the environmentalist wants to look good! In our interactive culture, clothing plays a role in relationships, professionalism, and identity. Therefore, the fashion chic environmentalist can use their loudest voice - consumerism - to show the clothing industry what we want, through what we wear.

So what to wear now? Purchase organic fabrics, such as organic cotton and organic wool. The average cotton t-shirt is produced with at least 3 pounds of pesticide and synthetic fertilizer according to the USDA's year 2000 study on cotton production. The simple purchase of organic cotton t-shirts is a big step in the green direction. Organic fabric products are only 0.07 percent of total annual worldwide production, but are slowly gaining broader appeal.

Silk (real silk, not industrial made materials) is still a natural fiber before the dyeing process. Harvested from the cocoons of silkworms, silk is the high mark in sustainability. The cultivation of mulberry trees to feed the worms in combination with hand-harvesting of cocoons is a clean fabric production process. If the silk was then dyed with soy-based coloring, you would have a clean green fashion commodity.

The newcomer to the ecologically friendly clothing industry is bamboo fiber. Bamboo grows rapidly with no pesticides or synthetic fertilizers and can be produced cheaply compared to organic cotton and wool. Bamboo fiber produces a material that is similar to synthetic fabrics. Unfortunately, it takes triple the energy to create and produce bamboo fabrics and yarns than it does to produce organic cotton or wool. On the other hand, it does not use as much energy as the creation of synthetic fabric. According to Bamboo Tex, a leader in bamboo fabric production, "bamboo fiber production is an energy intense method that uses 2,500 tons less energy then the normal synthetic fabric manufacturers, and generates a product that can compete with synthetics." Another advantage to Bamboo is that the fabric has a natural anti-bacterial and anti-UV character (naturally occurring and different from the man-made petrochemical additives to prevent UV penetration through clothing.)

With the move towards a greener clothing industry, this fashion enthusiast can not wait to see the next move in the clothing industry. If consumers purchase ecologically responsible fabrics the clothing market will begin to offer more options in clothing and style. Already, several large clothing companies including Patagonia, Nike, and Timberland have begun to produce and promote lines that are made with organic and alternative fibers. With our economic support of organic and alternative fabric products the future of environmentally responsible fashion has only begun!