Articles & ResourcesForcing Branches: Bring spring indoors early for winter color
and fragrance
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| Earliest Cutting Time | |
| January | Late January / Early February |
| Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas) Filberts for catkins (Corylus spp. and cvs.) Forsythias (Forsythia spp. and cvs.) Fothergillas (Fothergilla spp. and cvs.) Witch hazels (Hamamelis spp. and cvs.) |
Bradford pear (Pyrus calleryana
Bradford) Cherries (Prunus spp. and cvs.) |
| Mid to Late February | |
| Beeches for catkins (Fagus
spp. and cvs.) Birches for catkins (Betula spp. and cvs.) Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis) Lilacs (Syringa spp. and cvs.) Magnolias (Magnolia spp. and cvs.) |
PJM rhododendron (Rhododendron
PJM) Quinces (Chaenomeles spp. and cvs.) Red maple (Acer rubrum) Serviceberries (Amelanchier spp. and cvs.) Willows for catkins (Salix spp. and cvs.) |
We like to prune on a mild winter day when the temperature is above freezing. Branches and buds are softer and more pliable and will be better able to make the transition from cold outdoor temperatures to warm indoor temperatures. We inspect the branches carefully when making our selections, looking for those with lots of plump flower buds. Flower buds are round and fat, whereas leaf buds are smaller and pointed. If we are not sure what type of bud we are looking at, we do a little bud surgery. When cut open, a flower bud will reveal miniature flower parts on the inside.
Our method for processing branches is pretty straightforward; we cut and gather the branches and bring them inside. We then add floral preservative, according to the instructions on the package, to a bucket of warm (100° to 110°F) water and set it aside. (You can make your own preservative with 1 tablespoon of Listerine or 1 tablespoon of lemon-lime soda per quart of water.) The preservative will promote hydration and retard bacterial growth, keeping the water clear for up to a week.
Next, we fill a sink with very warm water. Holding the stems underwater,
we recut them at a severe angle an inch or two above the original
cut (see the tip below). For larger branches-around 1/2 inch diameter-we
split the end of the stem in half for a distance of about an inch
to allow more of the interior of the stem to be available to take
up water.
We immediately place the stems in the bucket of water. At this point we have a choice to make. We can simply store all of the stems in this bucket of water and set it aside in a cool place, like a protected porch or garage, where the temperature is 45° to 55°F, then arrange the branches for display when the first buds begin to show color.
| Cutting Tip |
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Very warm water is important because it contains the least amount of oxygen. If oxygen gets into the stems it can block water from being taken up, thus preventing hydration. Hold the stem underwater and recut them at a severe angle an inch or two above the original cut. The stems will quickly absorb the water. |
Or we could immediately create an arrangement, put the masterpiece in a place of prominence, and watch as the buds slowly swell and spring into bloom. In either case, to keep the branches healthy, we will change the water and add new preservative each week, or when we notice the water starting to discolor.
Both before and during bloom, place the branches away from bright, direct sunlight and away from any direct heat source, which will dry out the buds and branches and reduce overall bloom color and quality. Ideally, try to duplicate the cool, moist environment of spring weather. If you use common sense when selecting a location, your blooms should look good for at least a week. Branches forced for their foliage will last even longer.
Most plant material that forces well is readily available in your backyard. By cutting several branches each week as winter turns to spring, you can have a continuous show of color during January, February, and March. Sometimes there are even surprises, so it pays to experiment. Last fall, expecting nothing, we cut some forsythia branches for accents in a large arrangement for our Thanksgiving celebration. To our surprise and delight, the forsythia bloomed in time for the holiday.
Branches won't flower until they've had a proper cold period, usually about six weeks. If you try to force a particular plant into bloom and it doesn't work, it may be too early. Try again in a couple of weeks.
*Nancy Shenk is the owner of Mansion House School of Design and her husband, Bob, is a landscape architect in Lancaster, Pennsylvania.
Copyright 2001, The Taunton Press, Inc. Fine Gardening Magazine. Republished with permission
Photo:
Wendy Bowes